BorderDMC cotton #30, steel crochet hook size 10
InsertionDMC cotton #30, steel crochet hook size 10
Cut and blind hem (1/4” folded over twice) a number of fabric squares (damask is nice) or rectangles to make up the desired size of tea-cloth, or use ready-made cloth napkins (Figure 1-7, in Section 1 shows portions of a 40”x 40” tea cloth that was made up of four 20” damask napkins). It is important that the squares be cut on the grain of the weave. Do this by pulling a thread in the weave to make the fabric pucker along the thread line and then cut along the pucker line. If you are using ready-made cloth napkins make sure they've been cut along the grain, or you'll be very disappointed in the cloth being skewed and not lying flat or folding easily. Once you've finished the hems, if you wish to embroider on the fabric, now would be the time to do so.
Decide how you'll piece the tea-cloth together, for example: two squares are joined to make a long rectangle, then another two squares are joined in the same way, then the two long rectangles are joined to make a large square. Make a length of insertion lace (see below) the required length to make each of the joins; make each measurement for the next piece of lace after you've pieced together the previous pieces with lace, so you have exact measurements. To allow for shrinkage, you should pre-shrink the cloth all at once. Then make a test-swatch of the insertion lace, at least a foot long, measure it ( measurement A) and then wash it and dry it the same way you'll be laundering the final tea-cloth. Measure the swatch after washing (measurement B). Multiply the desired length of lace, D, by A and then divide this number by B to calculate how long you need to make the piece. After making the piece, soak it in hot water, squeeze, blot inside a towel and let dry at its natural length, before attaching. Stitch the insertion lace with tiny whip-stitches to the edges you are joining, press with a steam iron. It is now ready for measuring to join to subsequent pieces. Repeat this until all pieces are joined with insertion lace.
Once all the pieces are joined to make the full-sized tea-cloth, press with a steam iron and it is ready for the final border. Measure the length of each of the sides of the tea-cloth. Don't worry if it's not perfectly square or if opposites sides are not exactly the same length. You can tug and push while steaming to get them as close as possible. Write down the final measurements. If sides are not precisely equal, mark each of the sides in some way (such as with pins or colored thread) so you can later figure out which side is which when you are ready to attach the border. Adjust the measurements for shrinkage, by multiplying by A and dividing by B, the same way you did above. Add 1/2” to each of the measurements to allow for turning the corners. Now make up the border lace (see below) in one long piece, and make a right-angle turn when each segment you've made reaches the desired length. Make sure you do the sides in order, clockwise or counterclockwise, as you wish. Start in the middle of a side and end back in the same place, to make sure you have neat corners. Make sure you check that you are turning in the right direction so the final piece will be a rectangle or square, like a picture frame. After completing a right angle turn, check the inside length (minus the extra 1/2 “) to make sure it's the desired length. If you can't hit the measurement exactly due to the pattern repeat, make it a little longer... you can ease the length a little shorter when stitching to the cloth. When the border frame is completed, shrink it, dry it. Pin the border to the cloth, distributing any extra fullness evenly along the length. Then whip-stitch it to the cloth with fine stitches. and close the beginning to the end with tiny stitches. Press with steam iron, without pressing the outermost edging to leave it somewhat dimensional.
Insertion:
R1: ch 11, turn
R2: in 7th ch from hook (3 dc, ch 2 , 3 dc), sk 3 ch, 1 tr in next ch, ch 3, turn
R3: in ch-2 sp (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), sk 2 dc, 1 tr in next dc, ch 3, turn
Repeat R3 for length desired.
Border:
R1: ch 7, turn
R2: in 7th ch from hook (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), ch 5, turn
R3: in ch-2 sp (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), sk 2 dc, 1 tr in next dc, ch 3, turn [Note: this tr and ch-3 form the straight inside edge of the border that will be stitched to the fabric.]
R4: in ch-2 sp (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), ch 5, turn
Repeat R3 through R4 for length desired.
For a right-angle turn, replace R3 with the following : in ch-2 sp (3 dc, ch 5, 3dc), sk 2 dc, 1 tr in next dc, ch 5, in the loop formed by the tr just made (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), 1 tr in the same dc as the previous tr was made, ch 3, turn. Proceed with R4 and resume pattern.
End pattern on a R4 row, omitting the last ch-5. Begin the final edging which is a series of closely spaced sc's around the outside edge, worked as follows; it may be working in a contrasting color. Without turning the work, work 3 sc along the side of the dc just worked, 1 sc in the hole at the base of this dc, 1sc in ea of the next 3 dc, then, in the ch-5 loop (4 sc, 1 picot, 4 sc) [a picot is: ch 3, sl st in 1st ch of ch-3] . Continue around in this fashion the whole length of the outside edge. If you wish, this simple sc edging can be made more elaborate in any way you choose. using perhaps dc's and shells, picots and chain loops.
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